Agra is the home of Mughlai-khaana, where the Persian kings courted Indian spices and the traditional barbecue meats changed colour and flavour forever. Kebabs and gravies turned bolder with the addition of red chillies, garam masalas, exotic aromatics and rose petals.

The kebabs, pulaos and kheer and petha are all must eats. You must, however, be selective about where you dine, as there is a surprising shortage of authentic restaurants. Too many places have latched onto the gravy train and you might find that the paneer, chicken and meat float in the same flavour of red.

Some of the better restaurants in Agra are:- Peshawari on M G Road, which serves some of the best Mughlai food in town at some amazingly reasonable prices. The only restaurant on Taj Road is a multi-cuisine place that serves Mughlai, Indian, Continental and Chinese food. Petals on Gopi Chand Shivare Road in Sadar Bazaar has some mouth-watering chicken